By Jake Dorson. Jake is an Earth, Atmospheric, and Planetary Sciences undergraduate at Purdue University.
Deep beneath the dark depths, Earth’s heat pushes billions of tons of molten rock to the surface like an immense lava lamp. This magma erupts through the Pacific Plate, solidifying as it meets the cold, abyssal water. The plate slowly crawls across this incursion, and the Hawaiian Islands form, like a crescent of black stones adorning the neck of the endless ocean. The people of Hawai’i say that in the darkness of the beginning, Pele, the Volcanic Fire and Nāmaka, the Sullen Deep gave into their loathing and fought to the death. Their boundless rage was the catalyst from which the islands were born, and Pele’s eventual defeat saw her retreat to the Big Island to spew resentment for all eternity.
Twice the size of all seven other main Hawaiian Islands combined, the Big Island of Hawai’i possesses a well-earned moniker. In Hawaiian, its title is Moku o Keawe. A name that evokes chief importance and roughly translates to something like “the island bearer” or “end of the twisted string”. The significance and priceless nature of this place to those that live here cannot be overstated. This crossed my mind as my small plane slammed its wheels into Hilo International’s runway once again. Fog-thick air hung over the airport. Mauna Loa’s slopes gently curved into distant, towering clouds and disappeared. My hands were slick on my suitcase handle, and my clothes were already damp with humidity as I waited to finally be united with the rest of the research group. Our house was a pretty typical Hawaiian-style open concept with two subsections located 30 minutes from downtown Hilo.
Chris, Gio, and Marlo play frisbee in our rental’s enclosed yard. Taken by the author.
Dr. Jarriel and the women took the bedrooms in the ohia house, while the rest of us men claimed the orchid house. The gated yard wrapped around the buildings and was filled with beautiful fruit trees and other tropical plants. Supposedly, more rural houses feature these prominent gates in order to keep vicious, wild pigs and other critters of the jungle out. Comforting.
The next day, we fired up the Voyager (fitting name) minivans to head into Hilo. The roads in this rainforest region of the island continuously rise and fall like ocean waves between the suburbs of the Hawaiian Paradise Park. We were greeted by our research partners at the University of Hawai’i - Hilo under a small memorial tree.
The Hilo-based research team meets the Purdue team. Front row, from left to right: Jermy Uowolu, Torri Law, Hoku Brown, Bethany Correia, Allyson Dinwiddie, Gio Stabile. Second row, from left to right: Nathan Fagolmwai, Katie Jarriel, Jake Dorson, Hannah Stegall, Danielle Ejiogu, Marlo Weber, Chris Farber, Connor Underwood. Taken by Dr. Joe Genz.
Dr. Joe Genz introduced us to his students, and everyone introduced themselves and their families. Jermy Uowolo, a graduate student and native of the tiny Micronesian island of Fais, emphasized the importance of our family history and those who came before us. Jermy and Torri Law, another one of Dr. Genz’s graduate students from Kaua’i, each performed a welcoming chant from their respective traditions. Torri also gifted us handmade tea leaf leis as a thanks and honor. Leis made of tea leaves are durable and easily wearable, perfect for outdoor statues, children, or professionals. They would later draw many compliments and inquiries at the Hilo farmers’ market as we headed out for lunch and shopping.
The market sat between buildings near the center of town. Hilo’s architecture is utilitarian, but colorful and marked by heavy island weathering. Many of the structures appear fairly rundown or forgotten despite a lot of them being newer. The market itself had most of the standard fare of fruit and juice and all the jewelry you would expect.
One of the central stalls of Hilo’s farmers’ market. Taken by Jake Dorson.
The stall keepers approached overly-friendly and showed great interest in our group and research mission. I think we all appreciated a lot of this validation. Each time I travel, I search for a unique piece of jewelry to give to my lovely girlfriend back home. Sunrise shells are a very rare variety of scallop shell found only off the island of Hawai’i. Once reserved for Hawaiian royalty, their fancy colors fluoresce on the beach at sunrise. A young man was selling a beautifully handmade necklace featuring one of these shells, and I had to have it.
The sunrise shell necklace. Taken by Jake Dorson.
After indulging in some delicious poké, we walked across the street to Coconut Island and the park that surrounds it. We finally got to take in some of the Big Island views and do some swimming. Bordered to the East by nothing but water for 2,500 miles until California and to the South by the same for 6,500 miles until Antarctica, you start to feel a bit for Pele. The victor sister Nāmaka’s rage completely encompasses the relatively small bit of land. Looking out at the endless ocean, it’s clear that to the people here, a big island is still a small world.
Hilo Bay near Coconut Island. Taken by Jake Dorson.
Fantastic article with great history and beautiful pictures! I felt like I was right along side you while I read… only wish I really was.